Myanmar

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Map of Burma The hill tribes of Burma--the country now known as Myanmar--greatly influence the nature of the country's textile culture. The production of hand-made textiles--including clothing for ceremonial and everyday use as well as shoulder bags and domestic items like cushion covers--remains a vital practice in Burmese tribal society. Although during the 1860s the demand for traditional weavers and textile craftsmen and women began to decline with an increase in the purchase of imported textiles, the skills of weaving, sewing and embroidery still survived into the 20th century. Since the 1962 policy of economic self-sufficiency, the demand for locally woven cloths has grown and both women and even men assert tribal identity and tradition through the materials they produce.

CottonThe most common fiber used for Burmese textiles is cotton, of the variety gossypium herbaceum. Burmese highlanders grow cotton not only for use in household textile production but also for trade with people of higher altitudes. Most individual households can process their own cotton, cleaning it and spinning it into skeins of yarn dyed with the bright aniline dyes imported from Europe. These artificial dyes rose in popularity because of their easy preparation, resistance to sun and washing and the predictable results obtained through their use. Indigo remains the most prevalent natural dye still used in tribal weaving, although even the use of pre-dyed threads has come into existence in recent years.

Weaving Nearly every house also contains its own loom at which weavers can meticulously apply their skills at creating durable and beautiful fabrics. The typical Burmese loom is known as a frame loom, a form of weaving technology usually associated with the lowlands but also now used in the highlands due to the gradual integration of the two societies. The traditional body-tension, or back-strap, loom involves tying one end of the warp to a wall or tree, restricting the width of the piece and forcing the weaver to sew materials out of long strips of fabric. This type of loom remains prevalent only in more remote tribal villages.

Hill Tribe Weaving Because most Burmese tribal children learn to imitate adult occupations early in life, young girls often observe the weaving and sewing techniques of their female relatives in order to prepare for their own "careers" as textile producers. A skill in needlework or textile manufacture is seen as a respect for tradition; at the earliest possible age Burmese girls receive instruction in cross-stitch techniques, later progressing to appliqué and batik. Both weaving and spinning remain the domain of women, and most of a household's linens, textiles and clothing are made by the women of the house.

The textiles of Burma represent the diversity of the country's culture as a whole and the long and deeply valued traditions of Burmese culture. Despite the political and economic changes that Burma has undergone in past centuries, the production of high-quality, beautiful and unique textiles has continued to survive and thrive, making Burma world-renowned as a source of tribal textile arts.